Shellfish Harvesting on the Puget Sound by Josh DeBruler

JoshDebruler_Clams

During the mid-1800s, the Duwamish people, a coast Salish tribe that’s indigenous to the south Puget Sound, provided aid to the newly arrived European and Euro-American settlers by showing them how to utilize clam juice as a substitute for cow’s milk, a staple that the settlers no longer had substantial access to. The salty clam broth is rich in potassium, protein, and sodium, and served as a well-needed supplement to the often-malnourished settlers.

The Duwamish, along with many other Coast Salish tribes, had mastered the art of procuring nutrients from the Puget Sound through the harvesting of clams, mussels, oysters, and geoducks. Their mastery was so advanced that they even cultivated their own clams by creating clam gardens by stacking rocks in a line along the zero-tide zone. This practice greatly increased the number of clams that could be harvested in a given area and is often considered the oldest form of aquaculture known to Washington state. 

Shellfish harvesting has continued to be a mainstay in both industry and culture alike throughout the years of Washington State’s development. It’s estimated that the shellfish industry rakes in over 200 million dollars per year, making Washington the United States foremost producer of shellfish. However, it’s not just the commercial outfits that get to soak in the glory of our bivalve oasis, which is the Salish Sea, there is also ample opportunity throughout the year for the recreational harvester, and for the 2024 year—monthly tide predictions show that March is the kickoff for noteworthy daytime low tides. On these upcoming lows, harvesters will have good access to oysters, cockles, manilla, butter, and horse clams. If you’re looking to harvest geoducks, you’ll have to wait till April when the daytime low tides drop to -2 ft and lower. 

From the islands to the mainland shores, there are miles upon miles of beach where you can dig for clams and collect oysters in Washington. The main things to consider are whether the beach is open to the public and if shellfish are safe to eat in that area. Head to the WDFW website on the day of your dig to assure you that shellfish have been deemed safe for consumption in your given dig area and that the beach is open to the public for recreational shellfish harvesting. 

Oysters

Oysters can be found on most rocky beaches of the Puget Sound and no two beaches are the same regarding how low the tide needs to be for oyster beds to be exposed. A good rule of thumb is to stick to +2 ft tides and lower for your best chance at reaching your daily limit. As a complementary insider tip, I will add that Oakland Bay in Shelton, Washington exposes oyster beds at tides much higher than this. 

Oysters would likely be the easiest shellfish to harvest on the Puget Sound if it wasn’t for one important aspect of the process, and that is the shucking of the oyster itself. Legally oysters must be shucked on the beach and the shells should be left where they were found. This allows oyster larvae to use these shells during the colonization process. For more information on best shucking practices please refer to my 2022 April article where this process is explained in great detail. Oysters require little to no cleaning and can be eaten whole in a variety of preparations. Steaming, barbecuing, and deep frying are all popular choices. Minimum size 2 1/2 inches.  

Manila

Manila clams are one of the most popular clams to harvest on the Puget Sound and their populations remain healthy throughout the region. They grow up to 2.5 inches long and can be found in sand, gravel, or mud during +2 ft tides or lower. A variety of common garden tools can be used to collect Manila clams. The most popular tools are a hand shovel, hand rake, or a hand pick. Raking along the surface, or simply scooping a few inches of the substrate with a shovel, should easily expose these bivalves at low tide. 

After collecting your clams, you’ll want to store them in a cooler with a few ice packs to keep them chilled during transportation. Do not submerge them in water during transport. Once you are home, you can then submerge them in saltwater that you collected from the area where they were harvested. You’ll want to keep the saltwater cool with ice packs. This submerging process is intended to purge the clams of any sand or grit they have stored inside them. Discard any dead clams (clams that stay open and will not close no matter how much you poke at them, should be considered dead). Manilla clams can be eaten whole and are great for chowder, pasta, or soups. Minimum size is 1 1/2 inches. 

Butter clams

Butter clams are significantly larger than manilas, often growling up to about 5 inches. At a +2 ft tide or lower, search along the beach for small holes in the sand or mud. Once a hole is located, you can dig with a spade shovel down to around 18 inches or until you reach the clam. Use the same technique as with Manila clams to purge. Though butter clams are delicious when served with melted butter, this is not where they get their name. Instead, butter clams get their name because of the natural buttery flavor of their flesh. They can be used for chowder, barbecued on the half shell, or even fried. Minimum size is 1 1/2 inches.  

Horse clams 

Ah, the mighty horse clam. Different from the oyster, manilla, or butter clam, the horse clam presents a set of challenges that place it in a category not far from the Pacific Coast razor clam. These clams grow quite large and can reach up to 5 lbs. They can be found in the sand or gravel and are easiest to harvest when located in sand substrate. Walk the beach and scan the surface for a siphon protruding out of the sand.

Horse clams’ siphons are rough to the touch. Once you find the siphon, you can either start digging with your shovel immediately, or you can take a stick and push it down into the siphon. The stick will stay in place and will keep you keyed in on the exact location of the clam. These guys will usually be around 1 ft to 1 1/2 ft deep. Shovel the sand around the clam until you can get your hand on the shell and then give it a good wiggle to free from its hole. If the clam is deep enough, you will need to place a 5-gallon bucket with the bottom cut out into the hole that you are digging. This will act as a retaining wall for the surrounding sand, and it will keep the hole from collapsing in on itself. After the clam is removed, you can place it in a cooler with some ice packs and transport it home.

The horse clam doesn’t require siphoning, instead, these clams need to be processed like a razor clam, and the stomach needs to be removed. The abductors, the foot (or digger), and the neck can all be eaten. Be sure to cut off the siphon (the tip of the neck). Horse clams fry up well with a nice coating of flour and or cornmeal. There is no minimum size for horse clams. 

Cockles 

Cockles grow up to 5 inches but are more commonly found in the 2 inch – 2 1/2 inch range. Their shells have several ribs that run down each side, making them popular for those who like to repurpose shells for art and other decorative purposes. They can be found in 1-2 inches of sand or cobble at a +2 ft tide or lower and are harvested the same way as manila and butter clams. Cockles can be eaten whole and are often steamed or boiled. Be sure to purge these clams to free up any sand or grit. Minimum size 1 1/2 inches. 

As noted before, geoduck opportunities don’t pick up till April, so we will save that behemoth of a clam for a later article. For now, march is the preamble to spring clamming and it’s a great opportunity to get out with friends and family and take advantage of the numerous culinary wonders that grace the waters of our beloved Puget Sound.

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